
BEFORE THE ARCHITECT – HOME DESIGNING BACKGROUND – UNIQUE HOME DESIGN ARTICLES
INTERIOR HOME DESIGN - NATURAL STONE TILE FLOOR
By Before The Architect Copyright 2009-2010 Before The Architect
Everyone has been impressed with the quality of our plans. K. & J. M., Meridian, MS
. . . . . . .
INTRODUCTION
Natural stone tile
floor tiling can keep on giving –
A high-end look to any space
Safety of a surface the coefficient of friction (COF)
of which – its slipperiness – can be predetermined in ceramics or maintained
in naturals
Convenience of clean-up
Durability of manmade ceramic or natural stone
HOME INTERIOR DESIGN COMMENTARY
In my opinion, if you can see through
reasonably to finish floor selectively with masonry natural stone tile floor
tiling, please do it.
The keys to this home interior design feature are a sturdy floor structure and close-as-can-be attention to Laticrete International's direction as to material and method of application of finish masonry over either wood or masonry substrates.
THE WORKS
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In spaces prone to dampness, especially bathrooms,
Before The Architect (BTA’s) prefers ceramics with a wet (as opposed to the
separately determined ‘dry’) COF in the 0.5s. Less and it can get slippery
in BTA’s opinion. More and it can get tougher and tougher to clean.
In any case, choose the wet COF that suits your needs best. Otherwise, it’d be natural stones – their preferences: marbles and
granites for interior applications. (For exterior applications,
porcelain floor tiling seems to be increasing in popularity.) | |
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Ceramic tiling in baths is ubiquitous. Less applied by
far is natural stone as a flooring tile. | |
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The marbles tend to be less costly than the granites and, with proper
application of materials and methods, can perform with integrity. Marble is
soft; lacking a sturdy, evenly supported substrate, marble can crack and
breakup. What means ‘sturdy and evenly supported’? Floor joists: properly
sized for live and dead loads on given clearspans and with deflection limits
at or better than L/640; solid, full depth braced on 12 linear inch centers;
spaced at not greater than 16 linear inches on center; below not less than ¾
linear inch plywood glued and screwed on not greater than 6 linear inch
centers. Above that structure, consider following the prescripts of
Laticrete International for finish masonry over wood substrate.
Alternatively, if the application is over masonry substrate – reinforced
concrete slab-on-ground, again, consider following the prescripts of
Laticrete International for application of finish masonry over masonry
substrate. | |
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Some have cautioned to avoid marbles in blacks and
greens as being too soft for flooring – tending to fail more easily than
lighter colors of marble and tending to bleed sometimes. Marbles tile flooring
come in myriad lighter colors and gorgeous looks. Marble can be
scratched and must be treated with marble cleaning products. | |
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Granites tend to have darker looks on average compared to
common marbles, and, in BTA’s opinion, are better suited for highlighting
either in ground or at perimeters. Granite is hard – way harder than
marble. While granite floor tile application should mirror that for
marbles, be prepared to slow down cutting it in prepping for placement.
Granite can wear down a wet saw blade much more quickly than can marble. | |
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As with a
ceiling coffer home ceiling design, symmetry counts
especially at perimeters. | |
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Please keep the grout lines thinnish, in order to bring
out the finish masonry material and limit soiling. |
AN EXAMPLE
Here’s an example of a home foyer majorly in a commonly
available Carrara marble and minorly with near-black marble border and with
‘dots’ in ground. [Granite tile can come in devastatingly darkish looks of pure
elegance.]
In this home design, the home designer – The Missus – took this design and
material into an adjoining half-bath.
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